The included STL files assume you're using the exact same parts I am. Thank you again for taking the time to write up such a great guide. Works on both US 110V and EU 220V machines.Parts existing in the video:LED light kit: https://coffee-sensor.com/product/gaggia-classic-or-pro-water-tank-led-. Are the steps here suitable for older machines like mine? I drilled pilot holes for all the screws because my 3D printer has problems printing holes that small. I print with PLA filament, which has a much lower melting temperature than the plastic that Lego uses. Thanks for your time. The .ino file includes several libraries. I printed everything using Inland PLA+ filament. I dont have a measuring device but the change in pressure is visually noticeable when running blank shots, and the pitch of the pump changes significantly. Its stimulated a lot of interesting discussion! What exactly is a mains-rated wire, and where would I find one? This will keep things looking tidy. After autotuning, my values are: Did you try it? The same complexity applies to pressure control. Its one more thing to plug in, but the upside is that it would be electrically isolated from the Gaggia. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975122837.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.11b02e0edh0ELd. Your Gaggia would be in steam mode by default, you would never have to switch on steam mode. i heard from some that the PT100 with the M4 is more accurate. The PID will show the temperature, and be somewhat confused by its inability to reach its setpoint, however the PID is bypassed in the same way when the GCP is in steam mode. My only concern is the diagramm I downloaded from whole latte love shows different connections then what I have seen in my unit (Markings can be found on front side of the plug) 2-Check the color of the cable which shows L sign on the plug- meaning Live. Gaggia Classic Pro PID Top Mount Mod add to list Tags Pogo Pin Enclosure for Gaggiuino add to list Tags Orthodoxically economical Gaggia New Classic Drip. It will also be completely reversible and much cheaper than ready made solutions!This clip can also be treated as a how-to instructional video for anyone wishing to go the DIY way. 1. You would probably blow the fuse in this controller/SSR within seconds. The code is reasonably well commented internally and variables are named such that it should be easy to find values you may need to change for your specific implementation, such as which pins have buttons assigned to them or the output pin for the SSR. Using pliers to pull the connectors can pinch them on even more tightly, making them extremely difficult to remove. From what I gather, youre located in the lower mainland (B.C.)? I have few questions for you about this setup. Once you are able use the PID temperature readout to determine exactly what the steam cycle is, you know when to start steaming for more or less endless steam. Disconnect the two connectors from the brew thermostat, which is located on the bottom left-hand side of the boiler as you face the machine. Well I ordered the wrong thread. I had no problem with my mod other than the stickers on the back of the PID were reversed, so the terminal markings were not correct. Any ideas? If you really want to avoid the heating element switching while youre pulling a shot, you can blip the steam switch for a few seconds before brewing and that will bring the boiler temperature up a few degrees. Final note: before going down the PID route, the easiest modification to make, and the best starting point for Gaggia Classic modifications, is lowering the brew pressure. Thanks Alex! However, at the cost of convenience, these kits can be relatively expensive. Double check that this is the neutral! Shades. I can do a more detailed writeup of what Ive done if anyone feels like helping me find out whats not working properly! This steam blipping is a fairly common practice that people use to avoid boiler heater cycling, its just another way to do temperature surfing. Since installing the modification, I get a huge amount of steam and spray coming out of the portafilter when I first operate the pump so much so, that it sprays all over the worktop around the machine! And anything is going to be a huge improvement over the thermostat that the PID replaces. When the steam switch is on, the PID stays on but because the boiler temperature in steam mode is much higher than the brew temperature of the PID, the PID provides no power to the SSR and heating element. If you have never done this before, know that you are working with live household current, and this can kill you. This resulted in the PID not powering up even though the machine did. TopBox with logo : Less than ten left I can actually taste the sweetness for the first time. The Gaggia Classic has a max power consumption of more than 1400W, which can easily burn up a cheap SSR. You can take a look at this discussion about offset in the Gaggia Classic: https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/53319-what-temp-offset-are-you-using-with-your-pid/. Always double-check your specific models wiring terminal layout and numbering scheme. Basically, instead of running the pump for a few seconds and then shutting it off (which dumps your pressure courtesy of the solenoid valve) you open the steam valve about 1/4 to half way, hit the brew switch and then slowly close the steam valve (about 5 seconds or so). Then I realized that EU models come not with a bistable rocker switch but a momentary one (so electricity flows only when you actively pushing the button). These set the parameters and algorithms that monitor and control. It should be placed as close to the left-hand side of the Classic as possible. This is not a difficult mod. For me I start steaming when the boiler temperature reads 130 degrees C. So for others who are contemplating going for the extra effort of installing the steam PID, know that the return on investment of doing this is questionable, if not net negative. What you describe is pretty normal, except that I am a bit surprised that your steam drops temperature down to 102. The 103 is not a true 103, that is what is getting measured in the boiler wall, and there is also a temperature drop off between the boiler and the portafilter, so your final espresso temperature will be lower. 3. Hi Chris. add to list. Connect the +/- leads from the PID to the SSR input terminals, paying attention to the polarity as these are DC. It should be the power/mains line that comes out of the main power switch, but before the boiler. Pull the cover assembly off by pulling upwards, and disconnect the ground cables. Gaggia Classic Pro PID kit components and summary 2,765 views Jun 4, 2021 30 Dislike Share Save Murat ztrk 65 subscribers In this video you can find information about the Gaggia Classic Pro. Did a bench test with a tall pot of rolling boiling water and put the tip of the TC in the water and found it was reading 5.5 degrees low. The PID actually only attempts to achieve one temperature (brew temp), the second SSR bastardises a secondary output in order to achieve the second temperature (steam temp). The C-100 can accommodate only one sensor/SSR, so you would only set it for brew temperature. From what you describe, it looks the power wires for your PID are possibly tapped in-line with the boiler power? I formatted the table, its very useful. Universal Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50 . I was originally going to go with the gaggiuino, but this PID and dimmer mod are 100x easier A tag already exists with the provided branch name. gaggia_classic_pro_pid. Main Output: SSR: Open circuit: 4V, Closed Circuit: 24V40mA DC Mounting Dimension: DIN: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm) Attach the solid state relay to the inside back wall of the Classic, using a small bolt and nut. I have read reports of measurements of up to 8 degrees C lower at the portafilter. The connector is on the back of the machine, where mains power is tapped with a piggyback connector and goes to the PID. Once these bolts are removed, the boiler can be moved around without having to disconnect any hoses or wires. Your picture however shows the thermocouple connected to terminals 9 & 10. Thx, as a cheap indicator to assist with surfing. Chris has done a great job on this write up and its easy to follow. im trying to find out from shades why shades uses 2. as i have machines auber & shades on both the steam works fine once at at least 300F. Hello Chris, gaggia classic pro pid installation guideAUBER PID for gaggia classic proThis is a walkthrough / guide on installing an Auber pid on the gaggia classic pro. So far the temp range Ive seen when the heater cycles on/off (after ~30 mins of warming up) is ~90C to ~97C. Follow the included circuit diagram. Also, the PID generates almost no heat, because the work is done by the SSR, and this is heat-sinked to the Gaggia. The lack of consistency pre-PID is frustrating, because you can get everything else right and still be at the mercy of the temperature determined by the thermostat cycle. This video clearly shows how to program in an offset on the Rex C-100: https://youtu.be/9aW8MfiKIPg?t=291. You can use the same 18 gauge wire between the heating element and the SSR. The LED on the SSR is functioning but no current can be seen. Is there an easy way to set a brewing and steam temp? Tighten one end of your connector down to one of the solid state relays AC (~) terminals and plug the other end into one of the disconnected thermostat wires. I decided to go the do-it-yourself route, ordering the parts separately, at a fraction of the cost of the kits. Hi guys! I have re-read the specifications for this controller. Tags Gaggia Classic (Pro) PID controller housing. The thermocouple that I ordered fit into the threaded adapter without any modifications. Thanks, David. Two piggyback connectors and two spade connectors will also be needed, it's probably a good idea to buy a set, like this: https://amzn.to/3qOx9Rq or find a shop where you can buy those per piece.The video that turned me into a home espresso fanatic, by the ever brilliant James Hoffmann:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1LUkfpTtu0If you don't want to go the PID way just yet, here's an excellent video how to get the most out of your Gaggia Classic Pro on The Majestic Bean Channel:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSjkO-IQNT4Wonderful video by Damian Witoski on how to mod your XMT7100 to control two SSRs and therefore also the steaming temperature:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ewj5oXl_wk0Music credits:\"Montauk Point\" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 Licensehttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/\"Perspectives\" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 Licensehttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Just leave the SSR disconnected, or dont install it at all. One end of the wire should be a male disconnect connector, and the other end should be a spade connector. link to the pid I purchasedhttps://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info\u0026products_id=232#espresso #coffee #latteart #lattemy current espresso bar setupLelit BiancaIMS nano coated filter basket https://amzn.to/3dyQgZyLibra coffee scale https://amzn.to/3ps114i Tamper distributor https://amzn.to/2Q0rk52Under Cabinet stick on smart light strip https://amzn.to/2SK6cBTSmart plug (homekit, google home, Alexa) https://amzn.to/2TTwUb4Fellow Espresso Cups https://amzn.to/3zN6Izmcappuccino cups https://amzn.to/3zMU1VxGaggia classic pro setupV V V V V V V V Gaggia Classic Pro https://amzn.to/39B5coTIMS nano coated filter basket https://amzn.to/3dyQgZyTamper distributor https://amzn.to/2Q0rk52Libra coffee scale https://amzn.to/3ps114iBarista Express setupv v v v v v v v v v v v v v Breville Barista Express https://amzn.to/2FQS9E4Libra coffee scale https://amzn.to/3ps114iTamper / distributer https://amzn.to/2HmhshGBottomless portafilter https://amzn.to/3jd52prThe bottomless portafilter says 3month delivery I got mine in two weeksDosing funnel https://amzn.to/35fcqM1Knock box https://amzn.to/2KFfESEitems not to buy based on my reviews:Delonghi La Specialista Dark Horse Coffee dark roastKeurigChapters:00:00 intro00:30 opening the machine01:05 removing the boiler (optional)02:13 removing/replacing the thermostat04:39 mounting the ss relay06:48 wiring the relay10:37 wiring the pid controller 14:16 mounting the pid controller14:49 mounting the boiler back on15:11 closing the machineAFFILIATE DISCLOSURE:Some of the links used in the description will direct you to Amazon, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. Do you think its going to blow my machine if I dont do correctly? But Ive downloaded the wiring diagram for my machine. 2. Im tempted to return the GC because I never used it prior to the mod and it may have been a pre-existing issue. You should see no or very low voltage between neutral and ground, and you should see household voltage between the hot/load and ground. These wires will be connected to the solid state relay later on, so they no longer need to be in the bottom of the machine. . Thanks. For the Gaggia Classic, taking into account the temperature drop between the boiler and the group head (5-8 degrees C), the PID target temperature should be set to about 103 degrees C or 220 degrees F at sea level. However I dont know if my unit is properly calibrated and/or has a proper offset. Wire colors and positions seem to vary. The fun of the PID is not just the great stability, but the ability to fine tune the brew temperature to your taste! I plan to do this shortly for my old gaggia classic. I decided that for me, its not worth worrying about. Thanks! If the wiring was done correctly, the PID should power up when the Classic is turned on. Glad this writeup helped. Hi Ray. I do not suggest autotuning for this device because there is a huge improvement in temperature stability if you do the tuning by yourself. PID example MAX31865 driver is finished. On top of the original price tag, international shipping, taxes, duties and currency exchanges can make obtaining these kits time consuming and even more expensive. Hi peeps, finally got all the bits n pieces to do the Pid, brew & steam mod on the gaggia, does anybody have any general instructions for putting this all together? Where did you place the SSR? Hi Murat. Main Feature. Adding a PID on and replacing the OPV spring will help for sure, but by that point if you buy the PID as a kit from Auber or Shades that's $200 and the OPV spring from Shades is another $15. Likewise, you can use 22 awg for the connection between the PID and the SSR. Mr Shades is selling many small items (piggyback, spade, thermal paste, power cable, rubber grommet etc.) Hi Jun, glad you found this helpful. Run this wire along the rest of the existing cables and out the back of the Classic, through one of the vent slots. Im assuming it should be fine as well to use 18 awg wire to wire the mains connections to the PID, and between the heating element and the SSR? Keep the thermostat, in case you want to return the Classic back to factory condition. The PID kit you described should work, but like the C-100 kit the I used, the included thermocouple wont fit in the Gaggia Classic. It is the perfect place. If you go for a PID, you need to use a thermocouple. It shows that neutral cables coming from thermostats are connecting each other under the steam switch but mine are connected under the main switch. May I have your help about finding out which ones I should get from Shades? Thanks again for all your support. I am beginning to suspect that Gaggia created as many combinations of wiring configurations and colors as they made machines. I will monitor it over the next few days, but if the coffee takes good, and the only thing I notice is the warmer cup tray, Ill be fine with that, better in fact! Shades uses an XMT7100 modified to run two SSRs: a DA for the brew temp and an AA for the steam temp. Maybe this will help? You are right, its an M4 thread, not M3. I think this would be the most important parameter of the build, obtaining the correct temp of the water. Their kit is convenient, and is the way to go if someone doesnt feel ready to take on a 100% DIY project. Anyway, thank you Chris. These are located around the shower screen. My problem is, unlike Rancilio Sylvia, heating element of Gaggia Classic Pro seems impossible to connect without cutting cables. https://www.vertex-qis.co.uk/Manuals/PT100_con.pdf. Also, the diagram of the controller lists SSR to connects to terminals 9 & 10. The only other thing I can think of is the relay. that will make it where only one SSR is needed. Thats an awesome enclosure. I cant see how this wouldnt be a thermostat problem, unless you somehow wired the steam thermostat into the PID, but you would have gone way beyond this walkthrough to do that. Thanks! The boiler in the Gaggia can get hot enough to melt non-silicone insulation so if you don't have silicone wiring, make sure to keep any wiring well clear of the boiler. Since I cant control that, if you want to use it, you will have to parse the data: each line, after the headings, should start with the PID parameter (P, I, D) followed by the reaction of the controller. Hi Brian. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LODGP2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, BOX it does not matter if the bean is dark or light roast? I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. Do you think this makes a difference? The SSR is only rated for 5 amps. You can verify the SSR by disconnecting its AC terminals and checking that it is indeed turning on and off. Thanks for your reply: I think you are correct about the Gc being stuck in steam mode, but I never touched the steam switchs wires and reverting the top/bottom swap on the power switch didnt solve the issue. Feedback is that there are almost no two GCs with identical wiring, even units destined for the same power rating. Note that according to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UETVv0qgz-w, you can switch the C-100 between Celsius and Fahrenheit. Neutral is the return path for the hot or load wire. 15,00 . Many thanks for such a comprehensive write up of your project. You could definitely drill out the adapter a bit to get the thermocouple to fit. Also noticed if you use the steam for the milk it takes a lot of time to go back down (10min) to the set temp(i do run water through the boiler to bring the temp down, but it floats at a higher temp for a bit), does the steam affect the PID calculation or dont I need to worry about it? For the wiring inside the PID I just used 32AWG single strand hookup wire and for any wiring inside the Gaggia I used silicone insulated wire (26AWG for the wiring from PID to SSR, 12AWG to extend the thermoswitch leads to the SSR as referenced in the Installation Steps below). I found that moving the boiler up and to the side allowed me to get to the thermostat from the bottom really easily vs. the top. There is no 12v anywhere in the GCP, its all mains power inside. If you do this, secure a zip tie to the end of the sleeve inside the machine to keep it from pulling out. Hi Chris, Auto-tuning PID cooling/heating control I found this M8 female to M4 male reducer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284317077676. 3-Connect the other cable to the terminal on the on off switch, which is on top of or below the Live cable. The only suprise for me has been that installing steam kit did not help me much because brewing kit alone helped to have great steaming power by only watching temperature climb up to 150 degrees. I have checked the calibration of the PID sensor using boiling water in a kettle and it is fine. Hi Paul. That would be easy enough to verify with a multimeter, to see which thermostat is active in steam mode and which one is active in brew mode. Free shipping. Because the PID runs on mains voltages, an enclosure is required. I love this setup, however, I think I'm finally needing to move on due to a newly found problem (aka my coffee-loving girlfriend). Gaggia Classic Pro PID Installation #5 - I have power! My steam bottoms out around 130 or so, and I dont start steaming until 135-145. If in doubt, sit it out, and get some help. Heat the shrink tubing. Comes with all of the accessories that originally came in the box. Before replacing the thermostat, maybe check whether your PID and thermocouple are calibrated, before committing to buying more parts. Pull the steam wand up and out of the Classic, and set it aside. I will purchase the PID kit with thermocouple and SSR from aliexpress and buy these rest small items from Mr. However, when I flip the gaggia power switch to off, the PID LCD screen remains illuminated. I understand that water leads heat away, but is it supposed to loose more than 10c? Measured everything with multimeter, then realized that C100 doesnt get main while machine is on based on the lights. I just installed the pid on my Gaggia classic Pro following your instruction guide. I was initially concerned about my wiring (and my GFI) but its reassuring to hear you have the same side effects. I got the white plastic in one of the stock connectors a bit burned, the plastic looks brown in some areas and a bit melted. It has worked without issue so far, and maybe thats bound to happen to the plastic as current goes through and it gets old, but would love to hear other opinions. Good idea Chris. Connect the two leads you removed from the original thermal switch to the switched AC side of the SSR. I like the quality of the shots, and temperature consistency is more important to me than pressure consistency. Included STL files assume you 're using the exact same parts i am a bit surprised that your drops. 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C-100: https: //www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LODGP2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00? ie=UTF8 & psc=1, BOX it does not matter the... Have few questions for you about this setup a brewing and steam temp the polarity these. Function of my XMT 7100 unit LED on the Rex C-100: https:?. Would never have to switch on steam mode than 10c have been a pre-existing issue thermocouple are,! I flip the Gaggia realized that C100 doesnt get main while machine on... Return path for the first time the kits the do-it-yourself route, ordering the parts separately, at the of... Same parts i am, then realized that C100 doesnt get main while is... Power is tapped with a piggyback connector and goes to the end of the PID thermocouple! The connector is on the back of the existing cables and out the back of Classic... Input terminals, paying attention to the terminal on the Rex C-100: https: //www.youtube.com/watch? v=UETVv0qgz-w, can! Thermocouple are calibrated, before committing to buying more parts PID to the terminal on the.! Steam bottoms out around 130 or so, and get some help SSRs: a for... Within seconds before committing to buying more parts the return path for the hot or load wire unlike! Eu 220V machines.Parts existing in the video: https: //coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/53319-what-temp-offset-are-you-using-with-your-pid/ same parts i am of than... But its reassuring to hear you have the same side effects heat away, but the upside is there...